Chef Richard K. Pannell

Soul Food At Its Best

I decided to take a trip this past April to Seattle and attend the 5th Annual Food As Art fundraiser hosted by the Central District Forum for Arts & Ideas held at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center.  Bell Harbor rests on Waterfront Pier 66 Francisco like Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco with Seafood eateries all around water as far as the eye can see.  I stayed downtown Seattle and my destination was not far away.  After getting allocated at my hotel, I got dressed and headed to what I expected to be the regular food vendor standing room only soiree. 

I had not eaten anything so I was ready to indulge in anything tasty.  As I entered through the giant glass doors I immediately notice how clean and crisp the atmosphere was followed by some very well dressed, I assume, volunteers standing in position ready to greet guests with smiles.  I proceeded to the check in table and ask if the was a press check in.  The lovely ladies directed me to one of the host of the evening which asked my name and instantly knew who I was.  My head swelled just a tad bit. 

The check-in table was set up alphabetically and my name was found quicker than sautéed shrimp.  With my slow ascendance to the second floor I was feeling like I was in for a decent evening.  I was wrong.  Upon reaching the top of the escalator I walked into an elegant room that had ambiance of high society written all over it.

As I perused the room, it was slightly quiet with a few people buzzing around making final touches and some guests had already arrived.  I noticed the food tables set around the parameter of the room so I decided to start there and began what I had taken this trip for...Black chefs preparing good old soul food.  I was asked by a hostess if I needed any assistance.

I was looking for the chairperson of the evening and soon she introduced to Ms. Long-Walsh who greeted me with a smile and told me to make myself comfortable and I could sit any where I choose except at the sponsored tables.  Ms. Long-Walsh introduce me to the Founder/Executive Director, Stephanie Ellis-Smith who informed me that the brainchild behind this event is a chef by the name of Jim Watkins, who wanted to get Black chefs together and present their cuisine collectively.  With that Ms. Ellis-Smith took the skillet and ran with it.  With my little digital camera in one hand and heavy back carrying my digital video camcorder on my shoulder, I proceeded to one end of the room to introduce myself and briefly interview each food vendor.  Vendor is not the word I should used to describe these prestigious chefs and catering professionals, Cuisine Exposé is more like it.

My first stop was at the beautifully decorated tableau (each table presentation was of elegant proportion) of Chef Wayne Johnson of Andaluca Restaurant presented one of many favorite dishes of the evening, Lamb Chops with a Fig Mint Capote and a African Risotto.  Next is Chef Makini Howell of Hillside Quickie's Café whose display of Vegan dishes made me want to revert, Hickory Cured Seitan Roast with Maple Mashed Smoked Yams, Crisp Gala Apple Spinach Slaw with Candied Walnuts. Then came sisters Sabrina & Trisha Tensley of Osteria la Spiga  who prepared Piadina Fritta con Pomodori Arrosto (fried Piadina bread with roasted tomatoes and Crescenza cheese) and Debbie Hatfield from Absolutely Cookin' with her Braised Pork Pave with a Pomegranate Gremolata on Swiss Chard. 

Let me digress for a moment.  You have to understand that I am listing African- American Chefs who have prepared some of Seattle best soul food around...yes I said soul food.  And it is not because they are Black.  It is because these great chefs, the world's hidden treasures, put their heart, passion and soul into their cuisine, no matter what culture they are influenced or infused by.

Braised Pork Pave w/a Pomergranate Gremolata on Swiss Chard by Chef Debbie Hatfield, Absolute Catering

Then there was Jerk Chicken, Greens and Coconut Corn Bread by Chef Theo Martin of Island Soul; Red Beans & Rice with traditional cornbread, Michael King of St. Cloud's; Pan Seared Diver Scallops with Port Wine Braised Short Ribs atop Mascarpone Polenta by Chef Eric Wicks who is the chef of the house, Bell Harbor Int'l Conference Center; more grilled Lamb Chops, Prawns stuffed with Dungeness Crab in a Newberg Sauce along with a Baron/Steamship of Beef presented by Antoine Calloway of the Seattle Tennis Club; Chicken Scallopini (thinly sliced chicken breast, pan seared with capers and hand ground spices from his southern passion collection) by Chef Amadeus, Session with Chef Amadeus and from our motherland Cilantro and Jalapeno Fishcakes, Beef Stir-Fry over Grits and Jollif Rice from Chef Mulugeta Abate, Pan Africa Market and Coxinha de Galinha (mini chicken croquettes, served with a house hot sauce (it was HOT!) Moqueca di Peixe (Halibut filet simmered in coconut milk, lime juice, cilantro, vegetables and palm oil) and Frango Caipira (chicken sautéed with olive oil, palm oil, garlic, diced ginger, shrimp, okra and pimenta malagueta, Brazilian hot pepper) Graca Ribeiro of Tempero do Brasil.  The desserts of the evening were all deliciously prepared.  Lemon Zeppole (which reminded me of Café DeMond's Beignets) by Patric Babre-Kidan, Tavolata and How to Cook a Wolf; Fave della Morte (almond cookies-gluten free) by Sabrina & Trisha Tinsley, Osteria la Spiga.  Coffee was provided by Café Mocambo, Naomi Andrade Smith.

I tasted everything and I believe everyone else did as well.  I was overwhelmed with the presentations, the multicultural soul-infused cuisine and the flavors and colors displayed.  After trying to spend equal time with all if the chefs and mingling with other guests, I found that I was equally impressed with the staff and volunteers that made this event happen.  And, to see the support of Corporate America (Bell Harbor Int'l Conference Center, K&L Gates, Nordstom; Microsoft, American Seafoods Group, Safeco,  Pacific Medical Center and Convergent Zone).  There was even a silent auction, performances by a beautiful dancer, foodetic poet and charismatic speaker. 

The evening came to a close with acknowledgements and music to dance by.  I must say that it was one, if not the only, of the best events that I have attended that the main focus was food provided by African-American chefs.  This was truly soul food at its best.

Sweet Potato Salad by Chef Richard Dwyer, Casualita's

We are featuring chefs and caterers from across the country outside from the traditional 'down home' places like Mississippi, Louisiana, etc. and poke our heads in places like New York, Chicago and yes, even California.  We talked one of The Next Food Network Star contestants and wife of former L.A. Lake player Brian Shaw, Nikki Shaw;  The Soul Sisters and their famous Soul Roll; Kedar Massenburg who has embarked into winemaking industry; Melba's Restaurant in New York and the Neely's  who are the latest addition to the Food Network family.  I also had the privilege to speak with Dr. Kenneth Willhoite founder and director of the National African American Culinary & Hospitality Association and founder of the Soul Food Museum. 

What's up for my next travel, well I heard Ludacris is opening a Singaporean Style Restaurant in Atlanta and www.tastetv.com will be hosting its second annual San Francisco International Chocolate Salon this month.  If you know of any food events in your neck of the woods, let us know and we will let everyone else know.  Our summer issue July/August will feature black celebrity owned restaurants and more.  Until then...taste everything.

Chef Richard K. Pannell