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The Caribbean spice island of Grenada was the gathering destination for culinary greatness in May, spearheaded by a harmonious collaboration between James Beard award-winning chef and author Alexander Smalls, Grenadian pioneering chef Belinda Bishop, the James Beard Foundation, the Grenada Tourism Authority (GTA) and Spice Island Beach Resort.
Located north of Trinidad and Tobago and in between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Grenada is known to the world as “The Spice Isle,” with the Caribbean spice island being one of the largest producers and exporters of cinnamon, bay leaves, ginger, cloves, nutmeg (its crown spice) and more.
While Grenada has sealed its reputation as a spice utopia, it is now setting the stage for conversations that will introduce its culinary scene and ecosystem to global audiences through its rich food heritage and history.
Putting the Caribbean Spice Island on the Big Scene
“Grenada’s culinary scene is vibrant and diverse with a focus on fresh and locally sourced ingredients, traditional and authentic recipes and innovative culinary creations,” says Bishop, known on the island for championing healthy culinary habits.
Over the years, she has been instrumental in engaging other chefs on the Caribbean spice island, especially those looking to etch their creative mark in the industry.
Bishop teamed up with Smalls and Grenadian artist and filmmaker Teddy Frederick for the mini-documentary, “A Taste of Grenada,” produced by GTA Chair Randall Dolland and CEO Petra Roach, which made its debut to local audiences on May 16. The next milestone is to make it available for audiences throughout the Caribbean and beyond.
Filmed last September between New York, Grenada and its sister islands Carriacou and Petite Martinique, the documentary follows the duo through conversations with tastemakers and visits to island gems such as the Belmont Estate (producers of chocolate) and The Tower Estate ( known for its blue tea).
“My idea for Grenada is that we turn it into the global spice island for the African diaspora, the footprint of enslaved people on five continents, and it becomes an outpost for African American chefs, another connection to Africa’s vast resources,” shares Smalls, who is the culinary consultant for the country.
As the first culinary documentary of Grenada, every scene, location, conversation and dish featured played a role in the Caribbean spice island’s story on the big screen.
Frederick was intentional with angles, colors, wardrobes and backgrounds while capturing moments between Smalls, Bishop and others to ensure viewers can genuinely see the essence of Grenada’s gastronomic landscape shaped by lush soils, sustainable agriculture, vibrant flavors and innovative food styles.
Bishop highlights, “Our food is a fusion of flavours influenced by African, European, Indigenous and Amerindian as well as Asian. We are a very diverse small island. This influence comes from many different ethnic backgrounds.”
From Screen to Plate: James Beard Dinner Celebrates African Foodways
It was the celebration of diverse backgrounds and flavors that inspired the special dining experience held on Saturday, May 18 at the Silver Sands Grenada, titled “A Culinary Symphony: Celebrating African Foodways in The Spice Isle.”
The evening gathered over 80 food enthusiasts among the island’s who’s who for a multi-course dinner curated by guest chefs Carla Hall, Erick Williams, Cleophus Hethington and Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam and Nelcia Mapson (a local Grenadian pastry chef).
“The whole idea was, we’re going to have the kind of celebration and hopefully bring the kind of attention to Grenada that hasn’t previously been expressed or shown. We wanted something very special,” says Smalls.
Each chef was charged with creating dishes that honored the African foodways rooted on the Caribbean spice island with chosen ingredients, including breadfruit, cassava, coconut, tamarind, salt fish and yuca.
Dishes by chef included:
Cleophus Hethington – Scallop and Espuma of Yuca and Conch Coconut Custard and Roti
Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam – Breadfruit croquettes and Spicy Cinnamon Honey Glazed Mahi with Pineapple Spiked Cole Slaw
Carla Hall – Biscuit and “Hot Chicken” Tender Bites with Sweat Heat Mango Chutney and Cassava in Coconut Sauce and Crispy Okra Dusted in Lime Salt
Erick Williams – Salt Fritters and Oxtail with Glazed Carrots and Potatoes
In attendance to witness the evening dish by dish, Bishop says, “The menu created by the chefs for this historical event captured the essence of utilization of our island’s resources.”
The dinner concluded with Mapsons’ beautifully plated assortment of desserts —Double Grenadian Chocolate Tart, Banana Ice Cream with Nutmeg Crumble & Ginger Caramel Sauce, Passionfruit Opera Cake with Mango Caviar and Coconut Crumble—a delicious symphony of creativity and flavors.
“I knew it was going to be an important dinner. I didn’t know how affected I was going to be going through the process of the dinner,” says Hall, who is among Smalls’ team of chefs curating memorable experiences, including for a dinner honoring him this past February at the James Beard House in New York.
New to Smalls’ team was Adbus-Salaam, executive chef at the prestigious 10Cubed on the 100th floor of Central Park Tower in New York. “It was important for me to be a part of this event in Grenada for a few reasons. First and foremost, having the legend Alexander Smalls tap me on the shoulder to be a part of it. That was major and I didn’t want to disappoint. The second piece is me just being a Black guy from one of the diasporas and being able to go back in my current position at my age and being able to share with the younger up-and-coming people of color.”
Launchpad for Incubating Culinary Excellence
The success of “A Culinary Symphony” went beyond presenting Grenada’s flavors on a plate. It showed the power and impact of collaboration and also a glimpse of what can be beyond the evening.
“What I did not expect and was so, so grateful for was the dynamic relationships that my chefs had with the local chefs and what came out of that. In fact, what has come out of that really is my desire to initiate a boot camp and bring chefs down to work for a week with local chefs and turn that into something,” envisions Smalls.
Smalls is not the only one excited about Grenada’s gastronomic future. With more than 30 years in the industry, Williams, a James Beard award-winning chef in Chicago, also expressed his desire to be a part of Smalls’ dream to make the Caribbean spice island a culinary and hospitality hub for the African diaspora.
For Bishop, this aligns with her work as a master trainer in developing food and beverage professionals, with a few participating in the James Beard dinner. She says what’s to follow now is the continuation of culinary growth and embracing traditions and heritage to create signature gastronomic experiences.
RELATED: St. Thomas Chefs Craft Culinary Experiences Beyond Caribbean Flavors
Last month’s events certainly launched Grenada’s desire to have conversations within the greater Caribbean, the U.S., and beyond about diasporic collaborations, education, events, and more.
For Smalls, a lot has already been done to make this happen, but the vision calls for so much more, which is exciting. “I am creating a pathway, hopefully, for Grenada to be really engaged in the larger picture and the culinary arts globally.”
Grenada’s global culinary journey is just getting started. Visit them online for news, travel tips and events as well as follow along on social media (Instagram and Facebook).
