Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
|
Cuisine Noir has followed Tambra Stevenson’s groundbreaking work as the founder of NativSol Kitchen and later Women Advancing Nutrition, Dietetics, and Agriculture (WANDA) since 2015.
Most recently, Stevenson took the stage at the African Nutrition Conference co-hosted by the African Nutrition Society, serving as the North American representative, and the Ghana Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics in Cape Coast, Ghana, where she spoke on the role of the African diaspora in nutrition.
This month, she is hosting the first-ever gathering focused on food as medicine in the Black community. “There have been several food as medicine conferences before,” she notes, “But none of them centered Black business or Black food culture until now. I realized that if we don’t create spaces for ourselves in this movement, we risk being left behind from the opportunities—whether as entrepreneurs, policymakers, or media makers. We must ensure we’re not just on the menu but building the table factories.”
The idea for this inaugural event took root last December in Washington, DC, when WANDA hosted an invite-only roundtable convening leaders and key strategic partners across sectors to foster dialogue and gather insights on food as medicine.
“Writing the “Eating Well” feature on the African heritage diet as medicine was an opportunity to highlight how Black food can heal our community. That article was submitted for a James Beard Foundation Award. Even though it didn’t win, I flipped the concept into a proposal and got it funded.”
After the roundtable, Stevenson was approached by one partner, Johns Hopkins University, to host and support the upcoming gathering. “There was something there—a vision to dream a new world. That’s how this gathering came to be.”
Recognizing and Honoring Food as Medicine
As a National Geographic Traveler of the Year, Stevenson is uniquely positioned to compare global food and health systems, often noting stark contrasts. Reflecting on her recent travels to Ghana and Kenya, she highlighted how different environments shape health outcomes.
“There’s something about the African sun—its equatorial climate and active lifestyle promote vitamin D absorption. Meanwhile, in colder climates like the U.S., our indoor lives and sedentary habits hinder metabolism.”
Stevenson also draws attention to the role of processed foods in American diets, comparing even fast food chains in different countries. “I stopped in Istanbul and tried Popeyes there—it’s the same company, but the ingredients and formulations are completely different from those in the U.S. This isn’t a coincidence. We’ve seen these discrepancies in global discussions on nutrition, where companies adjust their ingredients based on the country.”
The root of these disparities, Stevenson says, is deeply intertwined with the history of racism, slavery, and systemic neglect in Black communities. “We’re talking about food apartheid—all remnants of racism. These inequities contribute to rising rates of metabolic syndromes and gut health issues in our communities. The capitalist system pushes quick fixes instead of the lifestyle changes we need. The very foundation of our wage-based economy comes from slavery, and figures like Harriet Tubman and Frederick Douglass played pivotal roles in shaping that transition.”
Stevenson emphasizes that the solution involves advocating for universal healthcare and food systems. “Food is medicine, and we must integrate it into our healthcare system. While health insurance companies should cover produce prescriptions and medical meal delivery for people with chronic diseases just as they do with prescriptions, how many suppliers are Black businesses? Our ancestors relied on natural remedies for healing—it’s time to uplift these traditions alongside modern science.”
A Gathering of Kinfolks
As part of the core planning team for the Food as Medicine in the Black Community Gathering scheduled for Sunday, October 21 – Monday, October 22, Stevenson brought together community leaders from African, Afro-Caribbean, Afro-Latino, and African-American communities.
“This wasn’t just another conference—it was a gathering of kinfolks, united by shared heritage and a commitment to change,” Stevenson says. “We were intentional about not making this gender specific. While women have historically played critical roles in food traditions and healthcare, men have also contributed, and it’s important to recognize everyone’s role.”
The historic gathering isn’t just a celebration of foodways from the diaspora but a clarion call for collective action to move a goal-setting agenda forward. “We’re creating an ecosystem bringing health, media, economics, food, academic, and policy sectors together. We are coming together with a mission of building healthier and equitable communities,” Stevenson explains.
“We are transforming a moment into a movement by convening leaders to create generational health and wealth. We are transforming our lives by taking control of our health and wealth through the power of food.”
Promoting Black excellence in nutrition and medicine to reclaim Black health, the event provides a platform for Black food businesses with the Mecca Marketplace and Sankofa Stage. “Food shouldn’t be a weapon used against us—it should be a source of nourishment and strength. We must invest in research, policy, and community-based initiatives to address food access and equity in our communities.”
A Vision for the Future
Stevenson stresses the need to make a policy agenda that invests in affordable, healthy cultural food access and Black food entrepreneurs. “Implementing common-sense policy is essential to generating economic and health opportunities for all. That begins with investing in small businesses and procuring their products and programs to address these critical issues.”
At the gathering, the economic panel will convene Black food retailers, investors, and philanthropists to discuss the need to invest in them. Also, the culinary medicine panel, for example, brings doctors, nutritionists, and government officials in dialogue to create culturally responsive solutions. Precision nutrition, driven by technology, can personalize dietary recommendations and help tackle chronic diseases.
Globally, Westernization of food systems is a growing issue. Stevenson observed in her travels across Africa the nutrition transition where countries from traditional diets high in cereal and fiber are shifting to more Western-pattern diets high in sugars, fat, and animal-source food.
“Even in Africa, learning about traditional foods in the classroom, clinic and culinary programs are on the decline, whereas Western foods are on the rise, driven by colonial attitudes and catering to tourists,” Stevenson notes.
Culinary innovation in the African diasporan food scene is a source of inspiration. Stevenson views its rich culinary traditions as part of collective identity, connection, healing, and wealth creation.
“Historically, American slavery and Jim Crow have shaped Black cuisine, reflecting on resilience in adversity. Understanding this allows us to reclaim our ancestral ties and free our minds. Food connects us to faith, culture and our ancestors. While the system may try to suppress us, we reclaim our power through our food, culture, and heritage. Diabetes is not our destiny—we can restore our health and build a lasting legacy.”
Food as Medicine Gathering will take place at the John Hopkins Bloomberg Center in Washington, D.C., October 20 – 21. Go online to the event page to reserve your space and join more than 200 attendees lifting up food as medicine for communities. Follow Tambra Stevenson on Instagram for event details and how to get involved, including signing the Food Bill of Rights.