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Black Chefs Food & Drink

The Family Reunion Celebrates Black Food Culture and Culinary Excellence

By Marcus Avery Christon
/
August 14, 2024
       
Sheila Johnson and Kwame Onwuachi, host of The Family Reunion
Pictured: Kwame Onwuachi and Sheila Johnson | Photo credit: Clay Williams
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Picture a backyard cookout amplified to epic proportions with a crowd of melanated people laughing, dancing and sharing stories over plates piled high with soul-satisfying food. That’s the essence of The Family Reunion, a groundbreaking occasion that brings chefs and food lovers to Virginia’s picturesque wine country annually.

When chef Kwame Onwuachi conceptualized this culinary celebration, he envisioned more than another food festival. He saw an opportunity to showcase the depth, diversity and dynamism of Black culinary traditions on a grand scale.

Working alongside collaborators like Sheila Johnson’s Salamander Collection and FOOD & WINE, Onwuachi created a platform that serves as a love letter to “the cookout”—infamous gatherings that have long been a part of Black social culture, where food, family and community intersect.

“I’ve been fortunate to attend every year since the beginning, and each time, I think to myself, ‘How can chef Kwame possibly top last year’s event?’ says Tonya Thomas, pastry chef and co-owner of Heirloom Food Group in Baltimore. “He manages to surprise us all and exceed my expectations every single time.”

The Heart of The Family Reunion

Since its 2021 debut, The Family Reunion has continuously pushed the envelope by enriching its programming each year. Set against the backdrop of the sprawling 340-acre Salamander Resort & Spa in Middleburg, Virginia, the event boasts numerous activities, from hands-on cooking demonstrations to insightful breakout sessions on culinary business management.

Thought-provoking discussions delve into the cultural significance of dishes like jerk, while the inclusion of chefs and culinary traditions from the Caribbean, Africa and beyond highlight the global influence of Black cuisine and the interconnectedness of Black culinary traditions worldwide.

Middleburg, VA - August 17, 2023: Day one of the third annual The Family Reunion, presented by Kwame Onwuachi at Salamander Resort.
Pictured: Group photo with Kwame Onwuachi and Sheila Johnson at 2023 The Family Reunion | Photo credit: Clay Williams

The Family Reunion’s impact extends far beyond its four-day duration. This affair shines a spotlight on underrepresented talents in an industry that has historically overlooked Black contributions.

In doing so, the event honors the past while also paving the way for a more inclusive and diverse future in the culinary world.

“We’ve sometimes seen chefs struggling with their restaurant, or perhaps their staff training isn’t as robust as it could be,” says Erick Williams, James Beard Award winner and executive chef at Virtue Restaurant Bar in Chicago.

“That’s when we use this event to provide the crucial support they’re missing – be it mentorship or simply access to the right information.”

RELATED: Fifty Leven Wine Socially Sophisticated Wines Please All Palates

Recognition in the Culinary World

Perhaps the most significant evolution has been in the event’s ability to attract and showcase top talent. The roster reads like a who’s who of Black culinary excellence: Mashama Bailey, Rodney Scott, Carla Hall, Gregory Gourdet and many more.

These chefs, many of whom have overcome significant obstacles in their careers, now stand as beacons of success and inspiration for the next generation.

The Family Reunion guest celebrity chef Rodney Scott
Pictured: The Family Reunion guest celebrity chef Rodney Scott | Photo credit: Clay Williams

“Chef Kwame has been incredibly thoughtful about producing a fresh lineup of chefs,” says Williams. “As someone who’s been fortunate enough to attend every year, I always look forward to sharing my expertise and contributing to this expanding culinary community.”

Now in its fourth year, The Family Reunion is more like a homecoming. It offers a unique opportunity for industry professionals to build connections with others who share similar culinary passions and life experiences.

The daily communal meals and lively evenings curate an intimate environment that has cemented this yearly event as a must-attend celebration of Black excellence in the culinary world. It’s here where food service professionals find tangible support for advancing their careers.

“Despite all the craziness happening in the outside world, whenever we come together in that space, none of it seems to matter,” says Thomas. “Everyone’s in such high spirits, and you can feel the warmth in everyone’s hearts. It’s truly something special.”

The Family Reunion is not just expanding in size but also in its capacity to effect meaningful change. The event has established a new philanthropic alliance with the Culinary Institute of America, Onwuachi’s alma mater.

The Family Reunion guests taking a wine class
Pictured: The Family Reunion guests taking a wine class | Photo credit: Clay Williams

Paralleling this expansion, the event’s growing prominence has also attracted an impressive roster of new and elevated sponsors for 2024. Industry leaders such as Appleton Estate, Wells Fargo, Amazon, Lexus, United Airlines, and the Virginia Tourism Corporation have rallied behind the event’s mission to nurture, develop, and celebrate racial and ethnic diversity within the next generation of hospitality professionals.

With each passing year, The Family Reunion leaves a lasting impact on its attendees. Chefs return to their restaurants with fresh ideas and renewed energy. Food writers gain new perspectives on culinary storytelling. Even casual food lovers find themselves with a deeper appreciation for how they approach dining out or cooking at home. The ongoing cycle of learning, sharing, and growing continues long after the last plate is cleared.

This year’s sold-out celebration takes place from August 15-18. To learn more about the event and view a full schedule of activities, visit The Family Reunion website.

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